{"id":268,"date":"2016-07-11T09:05:32","date_gmt":"2016-07-11T09:05:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=268"},"modified":"2016-09-11T19:13:28","modified_gmt":"2016-09-11T19:13:28","slug":"malma-kvarn-small-is-beautiful","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=268","title":{"rendered":"Malma Kvarn: small is beautiful"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-273\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Huvudskar-to-Malma-Kvarn-with-track.jpg?resize=864%2C720\" alt=\"Huvudskar to Malma Kvarn with track\" width=\"864\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Huvudskar-to-Malma-Kvarn-with-track.jpg?w=864&amp;ssl=1 864w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Huvudskar-to-Malma-Kvarn-with-track.jpg?resize=300%2C250&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Huvudskar-to-Malma-Kvarn-with-track.jpg?resize=768%2C640&amp;ssl=1 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 864px) 100vw, 864px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>As you journey from the southern end of the archipelago northwest, the biggest islands you\u2019ll find are Nattaro, Uto, Orno, Namdo and Runmaro<\/strong>. North East of Namdo where Ingaro meets Fagelbrolandet, there are\u00a0several tucked-away little inlets and hidden bays which make a pleasant place to spent a night or two.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_270\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-270\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-270\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/MK-use-1.jpg?resize=600%2C450\" alt=\"Just around the corner: the gasthamn at Malma Kvarn\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/MK-use-1.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/MK-use-1.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-270\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just around the corner: the gasthamn at Malma Kvarn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>My endlessly helpful English acquaintance Rodger had recommended Malma Kvarn as a hidden little gasthamn offering almost complete shelter in all winds, which after Huvudskar seemed very appealing. The approach was easy enough, we put Arcturus on a broad reach heading NNE, darted between northern Orno and southern Namdo, and then headed a coule of miles north before turning east into the waterway dividing Ingaro to the left and F\u00e5gelbrolandet to the right. Malma Kvarn is up on the right hand corner, tucked away almost out of sight and promised a peaceful night\u2019s rest. The only fly in the ointment was that I\u2019d seen storm clouds approaching from the west for some time but kept sailing anyway \u2013 just a little too long before firing up the jenny for the last mile\u2019s approach. By the time we reached the harbor the wind was blowing a hoolie which\u00a0 made for some interesting conditions coming in and hooking to a stern mooring ball for the first time. These buoys are preferred to stern anchors in many harbors and take some getting used to. Unsurprisingly we missed the ball on our first try but were already committed to coming between two other boats. But fortunately we had plenty of fenders out and a helpful man on the dock who took our lines while another hopped in his dinghy, took our stern line and attached it to the buoy himself. As the wind whistled and howled we tightened our lines, got snugged in, and as so often happens in Swedish summers, thirty minutes later all was calm and sunny, allowing us to unwind with a beer at the dock restaurant and a plate of the chilled shrimp with aioli (called rakor in these parts). So many of these little harbor restaurants have been excellent, which is quite a pleasant surprise after some of the swill I\u2019ve had in California harbors.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_271\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-271\" style=\"width: 480px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-271\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Mk-use-2.jpg?resize=480%2C360\" alt=\"Next to godliness: there is a septic tank pump out 'conveniently' located in the harbor main approach\" width=\"480\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Mk-use-2.jpg?w=480&amp;ssl=1 480w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Mk-use-2.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-271\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Next to godliness: there is a septic tank pump out &#8216;conveniently&#8217; located in the harbor main approach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The harbor here takes perhaps twenty boats and is clean and well-maintained with toilet and showers. A five minute walk up a country road bursting with tall hedgerows and birdsong is the laundry building and two minutes beyond that, just around a winding road you\u2019ll find the sauna, another huge bonus for us, since it is a wood burning model and there is always plenty of chopped wood, kindling and firestarters left for your use. Franz and I enjoyed our first truly rustic Swedish sauna here before cooling off with the adjacent cold shower, but on a subsequent visit \u00a0with my family instead of a cold shower we walked perhaps two hundred meters round the corner and found a gorgeous, tranquil and temperate lake, where we lazed for a delicious hour slowly cooling off. In addition to such enticements to visit, Malma Kvarn\u00a0is run by friendly young Swedes, the best of whom was Julia, a Polish-Swedish girl, very well travelled who spoke excellent English, who not only served as hostess and waitress for the restaurant, but even offered a yoga and breakfast combo for 200kr at 8am the next day. This <em>gasthmamn<\/em> a terrific find and will cost you around $35\/night.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As you journey from the southern end of the archipelago northwest, the biggest islands you\u2019ll find are Nattaro, Uto, Orno, Namdo and Runmaro. North East of Namdo where Ingaro meets Fagelbrolandet, there are\u00a0several tucked-away little inlets and hidden bays which make a pleasant place to spent a night or two. My endlessly helpful English acquaintance [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-268","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7wHME-4k","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1174,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=1174","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":0},"title":"N\u00e4sby to Degerby","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"August 20, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Tues. 07\/16\/19. Dep. 12.31pm. Arr: 7.03pm. 36nm 6 h 32 min For a higher resolution image of this route, click HERE The Only Way Out Is Through: Golden Light at Degerby If the previous day\u2019s passage had given us intermittent bad weather, the following day was more of the same.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Degerby.gif?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Degerby.gif?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Degerby.gif?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":776,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=776","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":1},"title":"Rear buoy docking how to&#8230;..","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"August 20, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"August 5th, 2018 The use of the stern webbing reel is ubiquitous in Sweden and Finland, either shackled to a kedge anchor while going bows-to on a remote island, or with a clip attachment to hold your stern steady while going bows-in at a marina (gasthamn). But since it's always\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/img.youtube.com\/vi\/Hs7utD5Xgu8\/0.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1595,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=1595","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":2},"title":"Saying goodbye&#8230;and hello","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"October 6, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Sat. June 2nd Bubbly personalities ahoy.... It\u2019s only about 20nm from Furusund to Norrt\u00e4lje and the day dawned bright and breezy as we cast off for an easy downwind sail as we headed north. Turning to port to enter the Norrt\u00e4lje inlet gave us some nice beam reaching action for\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Nort-aperol.gif?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Nort-aperol.gif?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Nort-aperol.gif?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":136,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=136","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":3},"title":"Orno to Dalaro","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"June 22, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"The day dawned cold and grey. But we had to get to Dalaro because England were playing Wales in Euro 2016 and Richard really HAD to watch it. Plus I needed a reliable internet connection and power supply for work, so I donned my foulies and waterproof and we cast\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"It's an easy journey. Apart from the filthy weather...","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Orno-to-Dalaro.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1271,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=1271","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":4},"title":"Rodhamn to Blid\u00f6","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"August 25, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Sun. 07\/21\/19 Dep. 9.33am Arr. 4.44pm. 42.3nm 7 hr. 11mins For a pdf of this route, click HERE https:\/\/youtu.be\/rIly3waxEj4 42.3nm of pure sailing bliss... Blido is a compact and charming small gasthamn which I have mentioned in these pages before, but the real tale of this passage was the passage\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/blido-old-boat.jpeg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":352,"url":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?p=352","url_meta":{"origin":268,"position":5},"title":"The Swedish Archipelago: what you really need to know","author":"Becoming Salty","date":"August 10, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"The Stockholm Sk\u00e4rsg\u00e5rd, or Stockholm archipelago, was described in one sailing magazine recently as \u2018a delicious chocolate box of 30,000 alluring granite islands, each with its own character, history and wildlife.\u2019 For the sailor, it's a fabulous cruising ground that can be visited again and again. It forms the central\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Blog&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Blog","link":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/?cat=8"},"img":{"alt_text":"From Vasteras to Moja and many spots inbetween: Our route, summer 2016","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Final-Journey-Map.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Final-Journey-Map.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Final-Journey-Map.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Final-Journey-Map.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Final-Journey-Map.jpg?resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/268","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=268"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/268\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":432,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/268\/revisions\/432"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=268"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=268"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailingarcturus.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=268"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}